The China Connection
Mestizos de Sangley, also known as Chinese mestizos, are mixed descendants of Sangley Chinese and native Filipinos. Photo circa 1875, Dutch photographer Francisco Van Camp
Dear Readers,
Often, the first bite of Filipino food is of Chinese heritage evident in dishes like lumpia and pancit. These dishes, alongside chicken adobo, form a trio of Filipino cuisine recognized worldwide. In the Philippines, such recipes with clear Chinese origins are often referred to as comida China, pronounced “cheena” in the Spanish manner. Notably, Chinese traders arrived in the Philippines over 500 years before Spanish colonization, significantly shaping the nation’s cultural and culinary traditions.
Historical records indicate that as early as the Tang Dynasty in the seventh century, Chinese merchants engaged in trade with Filipino communities, introducing goods like porcelain, silk, spices, and produce. These interactions led to the establishment of vibrant Chinese settlements, most notably Binondo in Manila, recognized as the world’s oldest Chinatown. During Spanish colonial rule, the Spanish authorities confined Chinese residents to specific areas known as parians, such as Binondo, Cebu, and Iloilo. Despite these restrictions, intermarriage between Chinese settlers and Filipinos was common, giving rise to the Mestizo de Sangley — individuals of mixed Chinese and Filipino heritage. This blending of cultures profoundly influenced Filipino cuisine, with Chinese culinary practices and ingredients being adapted into local dishes.
The enduring Chinese influence is evident in Filipino culinary staples: Chinese lo mein evolved into various forms of pancit; spring rolls were transformed into lumpia; and pork-based noodle soups inspired the creation of batchoy, a dish uniquely Filipino with additions like crushed pork rinds and bagoong. These dishes have been embraced and modified by cooks across the archipelago, becoming integral to the nation’s gastronomy.
During my travels through the northern Philippines, I encountered desolate beachfront properties marked by tombstones. These sites reflect historical practices where non-Catholic Chinese communities were relegated to bury their deceased in isolated coastal areas, as they were often denied burial in Catholic cemeteries. This segregation underscores the marginalization faced by Chinese settlers, even as they contributed significantly to Filipino society.
In contemporary times, approximately 1.35 million Filipinos, or about 1.3% of the population, are of pure Chinese descent, with broader estimates suggesting that up to 25% have some Chinese ancestry. This longstanding cultural connection is juxtaposed with modern geopolitical tensions, particularly concerning territorial disputes in the South China Sea. China’s extensive territorial claims, demarcated by the “nine-dash line,” overlap with the Philippines’ Exclusive Economic Zone, including areas like the West Philippine Sea. Despite a 2016 ruling by the Permanent Court of Arbitration favoring the Philippines, China has continued to assert control through activities such as land reclamation and the militarization of artificial islands, leading to strained relations and concerns over sovereignty.
Moreover, Chinese investments in Philippine infrastructure, notably under initiatives like the “Build, Build, Build” program, have elicited mixed reactions. While these projects aim to advance modernization, critics argue they may foster economic dependency, potentially granting China undue influence. Incidents involving Chinese-operated enterprises, such as online gambling businesses, have further complicated perceptions of China’s presence in the Philippines.
As the New Year approaches, the culinary traditions shared between Chinese and Filipino cultures come to the forefront. Delicacies like tikoy (nian gao), a sticky rice cake enjoyed during Chinese New Year, symbolize unity and prosperity, with their sticky texture representing closeness and harmony. Through dishes like tikoy, lumpia, and pancit, food serves as a bridge connecting shared histories and celebrating cultural diversity. Even amid political complexities and historical challenges, these culinary traditions highlight the role of food as the ultimate ambassador, bringing people together across generations and cultural divides.
With Food for thought,
Nicole
Excerpts from the above are found in my cookbook, I Am A Filipino.
RECIPE SPOTLIGHT
Photography: Ang Sarap
The first time I had tikoy was at my friend Chef Mike Santos's house in Makati. It was served for breakfast alongside eggs, Spam, and longganisa. The sticky texture of the tikoy paired with the crunchy, sweet, and savory flavors of the longganisa and Spam was unforgettable — it made my mouth water and my eyes light up. Traditionally served during Lunar New Year, tikoy symbolizes prosperity and unity, as its stickiness is said to bring people closer together. As you plan your holiday menus, I highly encourage you to try it at home and experience the magic for yourself. Enjoy!
Check out the recipe here.