Asia’s First Republican Constitution:
Constitución Política de 1899 aka the Malolos Constitution
Notes on Style and Substance
General Aguinaldo (seated, center) and ten of the delegates to the first assembly that passed the constitution, in Barasoain Church, Malolos, December 8, 1929
I couldn’t help but notice how fly these guys look, rockin’ three-piece suits in the blistering heat of the Philippines. No doubt influenced by U.S. and European aesthetics, I wonder what their style choices meant to them. To me, it is a deliberate signal for stately acceptance in their serious pursuit of self-governance and independence.
Constitución Política de 1899
The Malolos Constitution is not just a dusty relic of the past; it’s a living, breathing reminder of what it means to fight for democracy. As we find ourselves in the throes of another election season in the United States, it's worth reflecting on this cornerstone of Filipino history through the lens of Filipinos' own democratic struggles.
Imagine this: It's 1899, and the Philippines, fresh from centuries of Spanish rule, is drafting its first constitution. The Malolos Congress, a gathering of revolutionaries turned legislators in the town of Malolos in the province of Bulacan, isn't just debating the nuts and bolts of governance. They're wrestling with the very soul of the nation. The Malolos Constitution, penned by Felipe Calderón y Roca and Felipe Buencamino, was an audacious attempt marking the Philippines as the first country in Asia to adopt a democratic republic. And though it was a product of its time — written in Spanish, steeped in the legal traditions of Europe — it was also a blueprint for the future by creating a parliamentary republic with all the trappings of modern governance: including a clear separation of powers, a bill of rights, and an independent judiciary.
Felipe Buencamino, a lawyer and revolutionary leader, was one of the writers of the Malolos Constitution
However, the road to implementation was rocky. The constitution, though visionary, was never fully realized. The outbreak of the Philippine-American War just days after its proclamation prevented it from being enacted nationwide, and it was never recognized by the international community. The fledgling republic was swallowed up by the tides of imperialism, its constitution left to gather dust in the annals of history.
Yet, the debates that raged within the Malolos Congress feel eerily familiar today. Consider the contentious issue of church and state, a topic that nearly tore the congress apart and was decided by a single vote. It’s a debate that still echoes in our current political landscape, where questions of religious freedom and the role of faith in governance continue to spark controversy. In the end, the U.S. imposed its own version of church-state separation, bypassing the local debate altogether — a reminder of how outside forces can shape, and sometimes stifle, the democratic aspirations of a nation.
Fast forward to today, and you can’t help but see the parallels, as we navigate another election season. Perhaps we can draw inspiration from those early Filipino leaders who dared to imagine a republic where the people held the power. The Malolos Constitution may not have had the chance to thrive, but its spirit lives on in the ongoing struggle for democracy, both in the Philippines and here in the United States.
The challenges faced by the Filipino revolutionaries — balancing power, ensuring representation, and defining the relationship between religion and government — are struggles we continue to face today. The Malolos Constitution, though a product of its time, offers a reminder that democracy is fragile and its pursuit never ends. Their legacy is a call to action, a reminder that democracy, no matter how flawed or incomplete, is always worth fighting for.
For deeper dive into this chapter of history, I recommend reading up on the Malolos Constitution and its impact here and here. Read the full Document Here.
NEW YORK
If you’re a regular reader of my newsletter or follow me on Instagram, you’re familiar with my chef-residency in New York this past May at WSA (featuring chefs Woldy Reyes and LJ Almendras, music and karaoke by DJ Tito Vida, hosting and performances by multi-hyphenate Renee Rogoff, and production with Jeff Buan). The room was transportative to a Fantasy Island right in the heart of the island of Manhattan and New Yorkers, Chefs and Industry-insiders sang, ate and celebrated Filipino Hospitality.
WSA is a building and collective in the financial district, and it's an immaculate space with each floor gutted, redesigned and art-directed with 1980s vintage furniture (including Italian, Scandinavian, American and German pieces) and design elements that truly feels like a time machine.
The collective at WSA — rentable office space, restaurants and art space/photo studios — is dedicated to the cross sections of art and commerce. Every time I walked into this high rise building — that was the former AIG headquarters — I was in awe. The juxtaposition of diverse creative executives in the Financial District was a commentary on the future of New York. It felt inclusive, inspiring and influential.
In fact, in my 20+ year career, I have never felt as supported and collaborative as during this residency, and I would like to give a special shoutout to Sue Chan, Gaby Domingo, Jake Stavis, Gabriella Khalil, Darrell Raymond and Sam Wessner.
WSA was recently featured in the Wall Street Journal. You can read about it here, where the founder Gaby is given her due!!!
SAN FRANCISCO
FILIPINO EXECUTIVE CHEF CRISTETA COMERFORD RETIRES AFTER 30 YEARS SERVING THE WHITE HOUSE
Mission Accomplished ✔️ I had the privilege of interviewing Chef Cristeta Comerford, who recently retired after an impressive 30-year tenure as the White House Executive Chef, serving under Presidents Clinton, Bush, Obama, Trump, and Biden. It was an honor to engage with her — the first interview post retirement — in front of a live audience at the 31st Annual Pistahan, the largest West Coast Filipino Culture Festival.
She captivated us with her storytelling.
Chef Comerford and I first met during my inaugural visit to the White House, where I enjoyed a private tour of the West Wing, the Rose Garden, and of course, the kitchen. During the Obama administration, the First Family emphasized that the White House was "The People's House," and they graciously hosted many leaders from various groups.
In our conversation, Chef Comerford touched on the concept of Culinary Diplomacy and her dual role as a private chef feeding a family, and that as a United States representative, masterfully creating menus featuring the best ingredients from our 50 states for the world's heads of state. When an audience member inquired about the most unusual request from a president, she shared a memorable anecdote: a late-night smash burger. The White House kitchen, known for its readiness, is equipped to create any culinary delight at a moment's notice.
I’m excited to share our interview soon.
San Francisco was bustling with activity, from personal reunions with dear friends and the Outside Lands Music Festival to Pistahan. Additionally, Vice President Harris’s motorcades were seen around the city for her Fairmont Fundraising Dinner, which raised an impressive $30-$500K per plate.
RECIPE SPOTLIGHT
Burong Isda
Photography: biamia.com
A creative interpretation that could be a serving of Burong Isda.
In honor of Malolos, Bulacan, I dove into the local culinary scene and rediscovered Burong Isda — a dish that's close to my heart! Originating in Bulacan, Burong Isda is a fermented combination of rice and fish, and its flavor profile can vary depending on how long it's allowed to ferment. It can be a light, zingy, and tingly rice accompaniment to fresh bitter leaves, or it can take on a bold, eye-squinting, eyebrow-raising funk that’s thick, zesty, and intensely fishy. Personally, I prefer it somewhere in the middle, like a well-aged cheese with a penicillin-like tang.
It's a fitting coincidence that this dish comes up right after our discussion on the Malolos Constitution. For those following foodie trends, fermentation has been a hot topic over the past few years, especially since world-renowned and Danish chef René Redzepi of Noma fame released a 2018 cookbook dedicated to the craft. But let’s not forget, the Philippines has had a rich fermentation culture for centuries. From the bright, tangy notes of fermented mustard leaves to the deep, savory umami of bagoong, we’ve been mastering the art of fermentation long before it became trendy.
Fun Fact: René Redzepi and I share the same publisher, Artisan/Hachette. Choosing them as my publisher was a no-brainer, knowing I’d be in the company of such culinary giants like René and Thomas Keller. Truly an honor!
Burong Isda
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients
2 pounds red snapper filet, skin-less
6 cups of cooked rice or arroz caldo***
4 TBSP of Kosher Salt
Procedure
For Fermentation Process:
To prepare the fish: Wash and thoroughly dry the fish filets. Cut into small strips, and rub salt all over the fish pieces.
Make sure your rice is well-cooked, cooled, and should be still soft. Sprinkle the rest of the salt on the rice. Add the salted fish to the rice. Applying pressure with your hands, rub the fish and the rice together. (The pieces of fish will start to break down and combine thoroughly with the rice.)
Place in a large, sterilized, and dry mason jar. Make sure that when placing in the jar, there are no empty spaces. Push down and allow at least 1” of room from the top of the jar lid. Cover with cloth and a rubber band to secure the cheese cloth. Place in a cool, dark place for at least a week and up to 3 weeks. (Note: Temperature of the environment that the buro is in will affect the fermentation process. 50-75 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. Too cold, and it will take longer to ferment. Too hot and the buro will spoil before fermentation takes place.)
The smell of the jar once opened will be sour. Some excess water may occur in the jar. Drain off before cooking
***in Pampanga, I learned the trick of using left over Arroz Caldo (aka lugaw or congee) which produces a truly luxurious, velvety, and flavorful burong isda.