Nikki’s Note:
Savoring the Flavors of Home: Reflections on Manila’s Vibrant Dining Scene
Dear Readers,
For the past 20 years, my culinary journey through the Philippines has been one of discovery and rediscovery, rooted in the diverse and rich heritage of our archipelago's flavors. From my travels through the most northern tip of Pagudpud all the way down to the far southern reaches of Tawi-Tawi, I’ve had the privilege of experiencing the full spectrum of Filipino cuisine.
Whether it’s iconic dishes loved by many or lesser-known gems that reflect the unique spirit of each province, the Filipino culinary landscape continues to evolve, driven by passionate chefs and culinarians committed to both preservation and innovation.
In the provinces, I found honesty and tradition on every plate, each dish a reflection of regional character and local bounty. Yet, in Manila, my enthusiasm was often tempered by a culinary landscape that seemed to favor foreign flavors. Thai, Greek, dim sum — these were the highlights, while our own cuisine quietly thrived in the shadows of humble eateries. Sure, there were classics like Via Mare and Abe’s, but when I compared our dining landscape to other countries (e.g. Italy, France, Thailand, etc.) I was curious why Manila hadn't championed its own cuisine in the same manner.
Well, times they are a-changing. I predict that by 2030, Manila will emerge as one of Asia’s most exciting culinary capitals, drawing food lovers and critics from around the world to experience the innovation, flavors, and craftsmanship of delivered through the lens of Filipino flavors.
The timing couldn’t be more perfect: our hospitality industry has evolved dramatically, and an expanded repertoire of high-stakes Filipino restaurants is leading the way. These establishments, known for their unique perspectives, refined style, and ambitious price points, are redefining Filipino cuisine in ways that were unimaginable just a mere five years ago.
Shout out to Bistro Laudico (closed) one of the earlier trailblazers of modern Filipino cuisine in Manila circa 2006. Photography: Our Awesome Planet
Economists, including those from the Asian Development Bank (ADB), forecast that by 2030, 50% of the Philippine population will be under the age of 25, precipitating a dynamic, youthful consumer base ready to fuel new industries with their pesos. With these demographic advantages and continued investments in infrastructure, the Philippines is on the brink of unprecedented growth, particularly in its dining and tourism sectors, which is expected to double in 6 years!
Still, opportunity alone isn’t enough. While the future looks bright, we must be prepared to rise to the occasion. It’s not just about timing, but about preparedness meeting opportunity. Michelin’s anticipated entry into Manila by 2025 signals the world’s growing interest in our food scene, and we have a unique opportunity to cement Filipino cuisine as a lasting influence on global gastronomy.
In my humble opinion, areas worth focusing include collaboration of our global Filipino network of operators and founders, the mentorship of chefs encouraging them to learn abroad but coming back home to roost, supporting local agriculture to ensure the rise of domestic product and prominence, and a scrutiny to service.
Hapag restaurant in Manila at Power Plant Mall. Photos by Nicole Ponseca. Next week, I will share my experience at Hapag!
I believe that with passion, preparation, and unity, we can take Filipino cuisine to extraordinary heights. Together, we can preserve our culinary heritage while pushing boundaries and ensuring that the world fully celebrates the richness of our food culture. Let’s embrace this moment, confident that our best days are still ahead.
If you’re interested in continuing the dialogue, please reach out to me. I look forward to the discussion!
Warm regards,
Nicole Ponseca
MANHATTAN
October 3 - 5
ACE NextGen’s Annual Unity Conference
difference.
The Unity Conference is ACE NextGen's premier event, designed to bring together the largest gathering of Asian American Pacific Islander (AAPI) entrepreneurs. Over three days, attendees will experience workshops, networking opportunities, and inspirational sessions aimed at fostering growth, innovation, and unity within the AAPI business community. Held in New York City, Unity Conference 2024 offers a platform to celebrate achievements, share knowledge, and connect with like-minded entrepreneurs, all within an inclusive environment dedicated to empowering AAPI leaders.
Kicking off on October 3rd, Day 1 brings you to the Welcome to Chinatown HUB Marketplace for an immersive evening of art, culture, food, and drinks.
On Day 2, fuel your inspiration with thought-provoking workshops, engaging panels, and the prestigious Pathfinder Awards Ceremony honoring visionary leaders. End the day with an epic after-party featuring Jeepney, Masagana, Kora and House of Suntory.
Wrap it all up on Day 3, October 5th, with a wellness reset from Othership, featuring breathwork, sauna, and cold plunge to rejuvenate your mind, body, and spirit.
Use promo code UNITY100 for $100 off your ticket!
MIAMI
October 19
Banana Catchup: Filipino Block Party
Celebrate Filipino culture and cuisine at the 2nd Annual Banana Catchup Filipino Block Party at 1-800-Lucky, Miami's first Asian food hall, on October 19th.
Hosted by Nicole Ponseca of Jeepney, Darren Mendoza of Lutong Pinoy, and Cheryl Tiu of Cross Cultures in partnership with the Filipino Food Movement and ACE NextGen Miami, this vibrant celebration honors Filipino heritage and cuisine.
Enjoy a Filipino marketplace featuring local vendors, including Graze & Gobble and Ives & Bees. Delicious dishes will be served by hosts Nicole Ponseca and Darren Mendoza, as well as a lineup of esteemed South Florida chefs curated by Cheryl Tiu.
Collaborative culinary concepts will feature creations from Leicel Ros and Nancy Dominguez of Sili Miami, Reiji Yoshizawa and Jason Acoba, and Filipino-Cuban mashups by Masa Craft.
The event will also include live entertainment, with a DJ set by Kuya Trey, traditional dance performances, and a karaoke competition, making it a perfect opportunity to immerse yourself in Filipino culture and community.
Admission is free to the public, but space is limited so reserve your spot!
BAY AREA
October 24
PHTime is Now
Join us at CITRIS and the Banatao Institute in California to meet global Filipino Trailblazers.
CHICAGO
October 27
Kamayan
Kamayan - Filipino American History Month Celebration
Come join us at Cebu Chicago for a special event celebrating Filipino American History Month! Dive into the rich culture and heritage of the Philippines through a traditional Kamayan feast. Get ready to eat with your hands and savor the flavors of Filipino cuisine.
Experience the warmth and hospitality of Filipino culture as we come together to commemorate the contributions of Filipino Americans to our society. Don't miss out on this unique opportunity to celebrate Filipino American History Month!
RECIPE SPOTLIGHT
I don’t have much of a sweet tooth, but if you put oysters, french fries or anything salty in front of me, you might as well get two orders!
There are a handful of desserts that I love and Food for the Gods is an obscure treat that’s not too sweet.
Food for the Gods is a rich and chewy Filipino baked treat made with dates and walnuts, often associated with holidays and special occasions. Its flavor is a delightful blend of sweetness from the dates and the slightly bitter crunch of the walnuts, giving it a unique texture. The dessert is typically baked in bar form, with a golden-brown exterior and a soft, gooey center. Its name suggests it’s a luxurious, indulgent offering — perfect for gifting or sharing during festive moments.
Photography: Yummy.ph
Food for the Gods
Nicole Ponseca
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups AP flour
1 cup unsalted butter, softened and room temperature
3/4 cup light brown sugar
3/4 cup white sugar
3 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 cup molasses
3 tbsp brown rice syrup
1 cup walnuts, unsalted and chopped
1 cup dried dates, pitted and chopped
Procedure
Preheat an oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
In a stand mixer (or using a hand mixer), combine the butter, brown sugar, and white sugar in a mixing bowl. Cream together on med-low speed. Make sure to scrape down the sides of your bowl throughout the entire process of making the batter.
While still whisking, add your eggs in one at a time. Then whisk in the molasses, rice syrup, and vanilla extract. Blend thoroughly.
And the flour and baking powder. Whisk to completely combine.
By hand, fold in your dates and walnuts with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon.
In a greased 9”x11” baking pan, pour in your batter. Level it and smooth out the top of your batter.
Bake in your preheated oven for 15 minutes, then lower the temperature to 300 degrees Fahrenheit and bake for an additional 20 minutes. To check if it’s thoroughly cooked, insert a toothpick in the center of your pan and it should come out clean. You want it slightly underbaked.
Take it out of the pan and allow to cool completely before slicing and serving.