Tagalog Word of the Day: NAKIKIRAMAY
A sense of shared sorrow and support
Nakikiramay ako sa pagkawala ng iyong mahal sa buhay. Nawa’y magkaroon ka ng lakas at kapayapaan sa gitna ng iyong pagdadalamhati.
I extend my condolences for the loss of your loved one. May you find strength and peace during this time of mourning.
February 14, 2025
Newsletter #39
1959-2025
Margarita Araneta Forés, the pioneering Filipina chef who redefined Italian cuisine in the Philippines and championed Filipino flavors on the world stage, has passed away. Born into the illustrious Araneta family--the granddaughter of tycoon J. Amado Araneta--on March 23, 1959, Forés initially pursued accounting, attending Mount Holyoke College in the United States before completing her degree in accountancy at Assumption College in Manila in 1981. She began her professional journey as a trainee at Axona Holdings in Hong Kong, but it was during this time that she discovered a love for cooking. In 1986, a transformative journey to Italy changed her course—immersing herself in the kitchens of Florence, Rome, and Milan, she trained under master chefs and fell deeply in love with Italian cuisine. Returning to the Philippines, she brought this passion home and revolutionized the local dining scene. In 1997, she introduced Cibo, a restaurant that made authentic Italian cuisine accessible to Filipinos. From there, she built an empire with Lusso, Grace Park, and Alta, each a testament to her commitment to quality and innovation. In 2016, she was named Asia’s Best Female Chef, a recognition that cemented her status as one of the most influential culinary figures in the region. As a UN Ambassador to Gastronomy, she served meals to world leaders, including President Obama and Prince Albert of Monaco, but what truly defined her was not the prestige of her guests—it was the depth of her passion and the generosity of her spirit.
More than an award-winning chef, Forés was a mentor, a champion of local farmers, and a tireless advocate for Filipino food. She battled cancer twice, yet through it all, she remained a beacon of resilience and warmth. Her son, Amado, and those closest to her often spoke of the way she poured herself into her craft—not just selecting the finest ingredients, but creating experiences that left lasting impressions. Her hands-on approach, her meticulous eye for detail, and above all, her unwavering optimism defined her legacy. Margarita Forés not only elevated Filipino cuisine but also lifted an entire generation of chefs, proving that food is more than sustenance—it’s identity, heritage, and---above all--- love.
Unlike many Philippine-born or raised admirers of Gaita, as she was affectionately known, her work didn’t come into my life until much later. In fact, the introduction happened by chance—when a young man walked into Jeepney looking for an internship. His name was Amado, and as whispers circulated among my staff, I soon learned he was her son. That’s when her impact on our community truly came into focus.
The excitement and interest over Amado’s arrival spoke to the reverence people had for her. Over the years, Gaita became a friend. When in New York, she’d stop by, always bringing thoughtful gifts—mother-of-pearl flatware, capis shelves for ceviche, tokens carefully wrapped to weather the travel from the Philippines to the States and that carried her signature warmth and generosity.
There was no one quite like her. The stories are true—her optimism was palpable. The moment she stepped into a room, her energy filled it. Despite her diminutive stature, she was larger than life. Beyond that, she was refreshingly down to earth. Something about her presence resonated deeply—her skin, her features—so different from Manila’s ruling class, and I ate it up. But it wasn’t just appearance; it was her wit, her mischievous humor, her unapologetic approach to life. I confided my insecurities and, to my surprise, we shared the same hidden just below the surface. We hugged and laughed.
My deepest respect to you, Gaita, and my condolences to your son, Amado. This is incredibly sad. Your impact is undeniable, as was your personality and triumphs. She was someone you just assumed would age well into her 90s because of her vibrancy.
If you know who she is, you understand the loss. If you don’t, know that she was one of a kind—a trailblazer, a powerhouse, funny, and as much an artist as a businesswoman. We are all in a better world because she was in it. No cap.
With respect and admiration,
Nicole
